I know, I know. This isn’t a travel blog, and I’m not a travel blog writer. That said, I took over 2000 photos on this trip, and made countless audio recordings and videos, some of which will be used in upcoming art works.
In addition to Livraria Lello, we visited this amazing bookstore/Jazz record store at the FX factory ( I think it’s called “Wish”). And then in Carvoeiro, we found this nutty, cluttered masterpiece and bought stuff to read on the beach. There is a Walk Goodcoming for this place, too.
We played in a castle and met some peacocks.
Porto met my uninformed expectations of what I thought a European city would feel like. Lots of old, old buildings, with hilly-windy streets, and completely riddled by a warren of mysterious coiling alleyways that led to small shops and restaurants.
We stayed on the Cais de Gaia side, and while the view was stunning, it was loud all night, every night.
I could not help but notice that tobacco products all have horrific images prominently displayed on the packaging. Can you imagine the tobacco lobby putting up with the here in the United States? I wonder if it is an effective deterrent? We didn’t find a single cigar shop in Portugal, and completely unrelated, didn’t see many homeless folks.
I made a conscious decision to NOT bring home every interesting sardine tin I encountered. Instead, I took many photos.
I haven’t seen a working phone booth in a long time.
Carvoeiro was the perfect place to unwind after both a really long, stressy semester and then whirlwind tour on our feet. I loved it.
These recent posts encompass a tiny part of what we experienced in Portugal – it really was a trip of a lifetime. Portugal will be making an appearance in future sound experiments and video work. Stay tuned!
As I mentioned in the food post, we took a bus from Lisbon out to Cascais, and then we walked to Boca do Inferno. It was stunning.
On the last leg of the trip, we stayed in Carvoeiro.
We drove to Benagil and rented a kayak. We then paddled through some caves along the coast. I will never forget this, it was truly a wonder.
The water was very choppy, and it made exploring some of the smaller caves infeasible (at least without helmets and flashlights).
But, we got to visit this gorgeous large cave.
We landed on two different beaches. As I was trying to push us back into the Atlantic from the first beach, I lost my footing (it actually just disappeared into a drop) and I went under. I was wearing my iPhone on a lanyard around my neck. The water was so rough that I couldn’t stop to turn the phone off until we landed at the next beach.
I thought we were alone, when a man appeared out of nowhere. He told me he had just come from a cave I hadn’t noticed as we landed. He told me “this will make your adrenaline go” and he was not wrong. I wandered in part of the way – it was full of bird droppings, and smelled terrible. It also got claustrophobic very quickly, and I decided the sunny beach seemed like a better plan. Because my phone was drying out, I was not able to get any photos of the creepy cave, which is my other regret from this trip (besides the fruitcake).
These puny photos only hint at the beauty and wonder of this place.
A big highlight in Porto was visiting the world’s second oldest bookstore, Livraria Lello. We read somewhere that J. K. Rowling taught English in Portugal, and based the bookstore in Harry Potter (Flourish and Blotts) on this place. In fact, a lot of Porto reminded me of what I think Diagon Alley would be like.
To visit the store, you have to buy a $5 ticket and get in line at the appointed time. If you buy a book before you get there, you jump to the head of the line and get in a little early. In our case, the book was Romeo and Juliet. Once inside, you can exchange your book for one of a handful of titles from the Livrarie Lello press. I chose Frankenstein, which turned out to be good thing to read while traveling.
Livraria Lello is more of a museum gift shop than a viable bookstore. They had all the Harry Potter books, and hand selected titles from selected authors, which accompany space with their own titles, like Orwell’s 1984 and Animal Farm, Selected tales from Edgar Allen Poe, and Alice in Wonderland. 1000 people a day visit this place, and it felt quite cramped while we were there. Yet, it’s a wonderful building, and totally worth seeing.
Because we had bought copies of Romeo and Juliet, and managed to get in a little early, we were able to get photos on the famed red steps. Minutes after we took these photos, you couldn’t walk from one of of the store to the other for all the people in there. I made a video of myself trying to do just that (a Walk Good installment coming soon).
I think this would be an idlic place for a wedding.
I just got back from the longest vacation/trip I’ve ever had. Beverly and I traveled with her mom to Lisbon, Porto and Faro/Carvoeiro in Portugal. We logged many miles sight seeing, and it was wonderful.
In addition to working full time last spring, I taught Introduction to Animation at UMBC and Design for the WWW at Towson University. This trip was just the thing to clean my mental slate.
The weather was perfect. Most people spoke English, except, oddly, the taxi drivers. We stayed in three different Airbnb’s and one hotel.
Delta airlines truly suck. I don’t even have the words for how much they suck.
Anyway, I’ve decided to share a few things in different posts here, like I did for our Puerto Rico trip last year. And, I’ll begin with the food. Lisbon was more expensive than Porto, where meals were very cheap, even in the touristy areas. We had a little bus mix-up on a trip to Cascais, and ended up off the main drag in Lisbon. We stopped into a corner convenience shop for water, which was an eyebrow raising .50 euros a bottle. So, I suppose not all of Lisbon is pricey, but it seemed like most of where we went cost more than Porto or Faro.
We stopped in a McDonalds in Cascais to use the restroom. They only serve coke zero (no diet), and some McDonalds restaurants serve beer. They had burgers with prosciutto and mushrooms. We bought some fries, and they tasted exactly like they do here. Excellent.
We ate out a lot, and one thing to know about the meals in Portugal is that once you sit down at a table, you are in for the long haul. Even at breakfast, the pace is much slower, and they never rush you to clear up a table. It’s also customary to tip a lot less that we do in the states.
I tried a lot of new things. Sardines, once considered a junk fish, are plentiful in Portugal. If you have spent any time on this website at all, you may have picked up on the fact that I love canned fish. I got to have the un-canned varieties, too.
We made some friends in Lisbon – Rich from Terminal Rage, and his funny wife Rachel. We found ourselves to be politically compatible, and I got to ask questions from UK folks that I’ve always wondered about – for example, I wondered how the American accent registers for most Brits. I learned a lot about the theories regarding Russian support for Brexit, and how U.S. gun policy appears to Europeans. We discussed TV shows and films. They also showed me how to deal with full sized sardines with bones. It was a happy evening.
I had quite a few sardines, and most places offer sardine pâté with bread, which I liked.
Below is a bowl of grilled squid, which was accompanied by boiled potatoes and carrots. The starters included a small sharp cheese wheel, tuna with black eyed peas, and a spicy mayo.
Francesinha is a Portuguese sandwich, originally from Porto, made with layers of toasted bread and assorted hot meats such as roast, steak, wet-cured ham, linguiça, or chipolata over which sliced cheese is melted by the ladling of a near-boiling tomato-and-beer sauce called molho de francesinha. Here it is:
It was savory, and pretty heavy. We also tried Pica Pau.
Pica pau is a traditional Portuguese dish consisting of small pieces of fried beef in a light gravy made with beer, garlic, oil, chili, and mustard. The dish is usually consumed as a snack, accompanied by a few glasses of cold beer and bread for mopping up the sauce. We skipped the beer, and it was delicious.
We visited Pastéis de Belém, and tried a lot of pastries.
One regret I have is not trying this fruitcake in Porto. We visited this place twice for the pastries shown above the fruitcake photo. I’m so curious about fruitcake now. Alas.
One morning, we took a hike along the Douro river, and stopped for breakfast at the lookout park (Parque Infantil do Jardim do Morro) by the sky tram. It was here that I had the best hot dog of my life. To verify this, I came back to the same food truck for lunch and had a second one, and it was true.
I tried to tell the chef about it, but he didn’t speak a word of English, the poor bastard. It’s a footlong weiner, with arugula, potato sticks, cheese, ham, carrots, mayo, ketchup, mustard, and happiness. I bought them from Beverly and her mom, too.
We ate a lot of seafood, and I noticed that it was usually simply prepared. I hesitate to say “plain,” but each dish stood on the flavor of the fish, with little embellishment. Even a garlic shrimp dish was hard pressed to demonstrate any real garlicky muscle.
Shown below is a plate of rice, cabbage and beans, accompanied by fish cakes. I ordered this for breakfast, which my server thought was unusual, but I was trying to hit as many different dishes as possible. This is one of my favorites and, if I lived in Porto, I’d order this all the time. It was simple, mild, and satisfying.
I burned a lot of calories on this trip – we walked a minimum of >20K steps each day, and there was just so much to see and take in. One of my favorite meals (besides the world’s best foot long) was at the FX Factory in Lisbon. We sat outside – spent, hungry and happy. We started with olive tapenade on toast, and I had a grilled mozzarella and pesto sandwich, which came with chips. Beverly had a cheese/walnut on toast with garlic potatoes. We also had Olives.
Another first for me was a plate of cuttlefish, in an out of the way alley joint in Porto.
I love that just about every single place offers olives. Sometimes green, sometimes black, always with pits and these cool bowls which can hold them. I came home with a couple of olive plates like this.
Another place we visited twice was an Argentinian empanada restaurant. Outstanding!
If I ever go back, I’m bringing an extra suitcase and filling it with this Queso butter. Holy moly it is good.
Something I really enjoy about traveling is finding new variations on things we have at home.
We hard a hard time finding any sort of diet cola. We aren’t fans of “zero” sodas, and vanilla coke zero is not very good. We were able to find one single deli that carried diet Pepsi. One place in all of Portugal!!! It’s made in England, and it didn’t taste exactly the same as our diet Pepsi, but it was still delightful.
I also have some pretty deep respect for this stuff:
We didn’t have proper coffee makers in most of the Airbnb places, and Nescafé clássico saved my rump just about every single morning. It’s not bad in a pinch!
So, dear reader, this post contains the highlights of our food experience. Beverly and I went to a grocery store – I have a ton of photos from there, too – and I made our one, single home cooked meal in our Airbnb outside of Faro. Fettuccine Alfredo, made with the closest ingredients we could find. It was pretty good, too.
I love Edward Gorey. I’ve talked about him before today. I’m happy to report that we made the pilgrimage to his house, The Edward Gorey Museum. It was a thrill to stand in his former home, to marvel at his many drawings and works on view. We spent several hours there, and we even ate breakfast one day at Jack’s Outback, where Gorey frequently had both breakfast AND lunch.
New England is lovely this time of year. We explored Yarmouth, and Provincetown. Here is a partial account of the trip, in photos.
For Christmas, my darling bought me the experience (and shoes) of custom made sandals. COVID-19 was in full roar, so we had to postpone our trips to Jutta Neuman’s shop in NYC.
We went up for an initial consultation, and they traced my feet. We made a weekend of it, and had a wonderful time. We both found some great books and other treasure, and the food was delicious.
The second trip involved two visits to the shop. In the morning, they fitted the straps to my feet, and glued them in place.
We went out a delightful lunch that began with some fried anchovies, to give them time to assemble the sandals and allow the glue to set.
We we returned to the shop, I walked in the sandals, and they traced my feet in them to cut them down. After we left, they added a Birkenstock type tread and put them in the mail.
I love sandals, and I’ve always wanted to learn how to make them. I tell a story about in 1993, I was in NYC for the CMJ festival, and happened upon a leather shop that made belts, bags and sandals. I was enthralled with the place, and while I never had the chance to have sandals made for myself, I did strike up a correspondence with the proprietor the resulted in the offer of an apprenticeship. I had just bought my first house in Baltimore, and couldn’t make it work. I figured someday I’ll do this. Meaning both learning to make sandals, and also have a bespoke pair for myself. I can happily cross one of this off my todo list.
These feel amazing – they fit perfectly, and I never want to take them off. I love them – what a wonderful experience and gift. So very thoughtful!
While we were in NYC, we visited the garment district, which was a lot of fun. I found some neon PVC which I’m going to make some repeated things with – more on that soon.
Happy Spring!
P.S. My nail polish is OPI Blue my mind. It matches the drums I use in Coastguard, and is my favorite color.
